The Ōmi region has long played an important role in Japanese history. Ōmi was one of the traditional provinces of old Japan, bordering eight other provinces, it straddled the only gap in the mountains separating East and West Japan. Its central position, with the great Lake Biwa affording transportation routes, being close to Kyoto and traversed by Japan’s major traditional highways, the Tokaido and the Nakasendo, linking the Imperial capital, Kyoto, with the Shogunate cities of Kamakura and later Edo (Tokyo) made it strategically important, and so the Ōmi area is dotted with samurai castles and history changing battlefields.
From the late Heian Period (794-1185) and the rise of the samurai elite during the Kamakura period (1185-1333) the Sasaki clan were the traditional Governors of Ōmi Province, and their cadet branches, the Rokkaku and Kyogoku clans dominated Ōmi into the Civil Warring States period until turmoil from within weakened both clans, and Ōmi became a battleground between the leading Azai and Asakura, and the invading forces of warlord Oda Nobunaga, eager to conquer and unite the nation.
The Azai Clan
The Battle of Anegawa in 1570, fought on the northern tip of Lake Biwa pitted the forces of Oda Nobunaga and Tokugawa Ieyasu against Ōmi’s Azai and Asakura alliance. Nobunaga emerged victorious, and would build one of the biggest, most elegant and innovative castles of Japan’s violent Sengoku, or Warring States period, Azuchi Castle beside Lake Biwa in Ōmi. Nobunaga was assassinated and the castle was destroyed just three years after its completion, but the magnificent stone ruins continue to amaze and delight visitors to this day. Following Nobunaga’s death, much of Ōmi province was claimed by his successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and the modern day Hikone, Maibara and Nagahama area was awarded to Ōmi born Ishida Mitsunari. Ōmi had seen more action as Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Nobunaga’s other generals fought amongst themselves over Nobunaga’s succession. Hideyoshi emerged the victor of the Battle of Shizugatake and went on to unite the nation, but Hideyoshi’s death in 1598 would split the nation into two factions, East and West. Ishida Mitsunari of Ōmi lead the Toyotomi loyalist Western forces, while Tokugawa Ieyasu headed the East, leading to the decisive Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Victory over Ishida Mitsunari’s Western forces gave control of the nation to the Tokugawa, who in recognizing the strategic value of Ōmi, positioned his trusted general Ii Naomasa there, and work on Hikone Castle began.
Hikone Castle
Of the 170 samurai castles in operation across Japan during the Edo period (1603-1867), only 12 keeps remain in original condition to this day. Of those 12 only five are classified as National Treasures. Elegant Hikone Castle is one of those five. Cleverly constructed on a hill overlooking the shores of Lake Biwa, it monitored lakeside traffic, as well as that of the major highways, the Tokaido and Nakasendo which passed close by. As a bottleneck between Lake Biwa and the eastern mountain range, its role was to prevent Toyotomi allied armies from being able to attack eastern held Japan. Today, Hikone’s fine keep and other extant structures, its masterful layout, and the exquisite daimyo gardens make it a popular tourist destination.
During the peaceful Edo period, the Hikone based Ii clan continued to play a major role in the politics of the shogunate, with the Tairo (Prime Minister) Ii Naosuke being among the most influential and famous.
Ōmi is the birthplace of many samurai heroes and maintains links to many historical personages, names that appear time and again in the annuls of history — Daimyo Azai Nagamasa, the samurai castle architect, warrior, statesman and advisor to Tokugawa Ieyasu Todo Takatora, Battle of Sekigahara leader Ishida Mitsunari, the Tairo, Ii Naosuke among many others are all associated with Ōmi. One is never far from exciting and fascinating history in Ōmi.